Agápi and Dolmas | A Travel Guide For First-Timers To Greece
“We should do it. Why not? Let’s go,” he whispered. In that moment, my world was moving in slow-motion. We were going to Greece. GREECE! Time stopped.
I grew up surrounded by a boisterous Greek family and traditional Mediterranean food. Close to Christmastime, my family spends an entire day baking trays of Kourabiethes – a decadent butter cookie with a recipe handwritten by my Yia Yia (grandma). From dancing around fire pits with lamb slowly turning above the glowing embers to weekends with my sweet Yia Yia Matina in the Bay Area, my mom instilled as much Greek tradition in our childhoods as possible. Sitting close to my great grandma on her pilling orange couch, I can still see those beautiful wrinkled hands flipping the browning pages of an old photo album. White buildings with arched doorways and blue roofs dotted the cliffside. These crinkled snapshots of the Aegean sea filled my earliest memories. It wasn’t a question of if I would ever see Greece, but when.
my mom and Yia Yia Matina
Bon Voyage
Planning began that night — eagerly starting the search for flights and accommodations. Not only going to my dream country, it would also be my first time traveling abroad. My great, great grandparents are from a tiny village called Kyparissi located along the north east coast of Laconia, Greece. While I someday hope to walk the cobbled streets where they resided, we decided to visit more occupied regions for this trip. After some research, Santorini and Paros were our Greek islands of choice. I could almost taste that first bite of authentic baklava.
After 15 hours in the air, we landed in Athens and went straight to our Airstay Hotel. The plush beds and tranquil atmosphere was exactly what we needed with another day of travel to Santorini ahead.
While you can fly from island to island, ferries are the most economical and widely used option. Preparing to board the colossal watercraft at dawn, we noticed a sign for a bakery across the street from the port. With one wordless look, Seth and I jogged to the filo-filled haven. After securing hot coffees and a box filled with local pastries – some familiar, others brand new – we made our way back to the boat. We found our seats and cozied in for a 4 hour journey across the seas to Santorini.
Santorini Dreams
Although many first-time travelers to Santorini opt to stay in the bustling village of Oia, Seth and I chose a more private retreat in Pyrgos, about 30 minutes away. Walking through the doors of our AirBnb, I audibly gasped at how beautiful it was. The Cycladic complex was constructed with natural stone and a minimalistic design. Being the highest village on the island, the mountain views rivaled the sweeping seascape.
Each morning, we were greeted with a breakfast tray of greek yogurt drizzled in local olive oil and honey, hot cappuccinos with extra foam, the softest bread still warm, eggs with feta and ham, and a side of cucumbers with sliced cherry tomatoes. We ate on the veranda, watching as donkeys hee-hawed down the quiet road. At night, we enjoyed the stars from our private jacuzzi or the rooftop pool. Simply put, we were in heaven.
One of my longtime favorite movie and book series is The Sisterhood Of The Travelling Pants. Scenes of Lena riding on the back of Kostos’ scooter in Greece always captivated me and I aspired to do the same someday.
Ironically, Seth and I cruise on his vintage Vespa around Northern California often but riding in Greece was an entirely new experience. The narrow streets are filled with small cars, 4-wheelers and plenty of foot traffic. With sea air and salt in my wavy hair, we joyfully rode the rental scooter from coast to coast of Santorini, enjoying countless stops in between.
Seth and I relished many restaurants, coffee shops and experiences in Santorini. These were some of our favorites.
TO EAT
Kantouni
Under the shade of mature trees, 27 years of Greek hospitality awaits visitors. We enjoyed a light dinner here on our first night and were delighted when the waitress set down two perfect portions of sweet panna cotta dusted in cinnamon. Later learning that it’s somewhat of a tradition for Greek restaurants to surprise guests with a last “taste,” we happily took tiny bites of our first dessert in Santorini.
Penelopes
Found when exploring the neighborhood, Penelope’s was the happiest accident. Locals gather to nibble on freshly grilled pita bread dipped in rich olive oil, sip ouzo and delight in breathtaking sunsets. Enjoy a walk around the surrounding area and glimpse storybook scenes that will become bookmarked in your mind for years to come.
Rymidi
Sitting outside Rymidi, the sound of kids happily playing was the soundtrack for our meal. Locals walked by, including an old whiskered man with a wool cap who smiled at me and tipped his hat. Offering traditional Greek fare in the heart of Pyrgos Square, we loved this spot for its welcoming charm and upscale, seasonal fare.
TO DO
Giorgaros Fishing Tours
“Fish like a greek!” One of my goals this year (and in years to come) is to fish more often. When researching what we wanted to experience in Greece, an angling adventure was high-up on both of our lists. After reading the philosophy on their website, we booked a day with Giorgaros. Luckily, we had the boat and crew to ourselves. We hooked vibrant Mediterranean fish after fish, and enjoyed a meal with our fresh catches prepared right on the boat. Beginners to seasoned fishermen will equally enjoy the casual environment – it feels like you’re cruising the ocean with old friends.
Wine Tasting At Estate Argyros
Ah, the nectar of the Gods. Seth and I rode the scooter through sweeping vines dripping with white grapes, towards our first tasting. Estate Argyros was established in 1903 but the Argyros family was involved in wine production decades before. Today, the cutting edge establishment spans more than 3,000 ft of rich soil, ideal for viticulture.
Explore By Foot
A church bell rings. Rain drips from the white verandas and early morning light is reflecting off the wet cobblestone – walking around Greece is free and one of the greatest delights.
After 4 days and 3 blissful nights in Santorini, we packed our bags for the next adventure. Efcharisto, Santorini and geiá sou, Paros!
Perfectly Paros
Cruising along the small, winding streets, a driver transporting us from Athens to the ferry asked which islands we were traveling to during our visit. When we shared that the plan was Santorini then Paros, he said “Good choice. Have your adventures in Santorini then rest in Paros. It’s a slower pace of life there.” After an international flight and jam-packed itinerary in Santorini, we welcomed a bit of relaxation.
Exiting the ferry amongst hundreds of travelers, seeing Paros felt like love at first sight. A turquoise ocean surrounded Parikia’s rocky beaches, and the air smelled sweet – like blooming flowers on a stormy night. Our AirBnb hosts generously scheduled a car to transport us from the port to Naousa where we were staying. A short walk to the main square in the heart of town and breathtaking views, Seth and I’s Cycladic accommodations also featured beach access right across the road. Deciding that we’d like to explore steeper areas of the island, Seth rented a car and, although manual, smoothly shifted up and down the Greek mountainsides.
Known for its striking architecture and sand beaches, Paros is for lack of a better word – wildly romantic. Otherworldly sunsets and ancient castles, foamy Freddo Espressos and the creamiest pasta will live forever in my memories of Paros. Sadly, we only stayed in Paros for 2 nights and 3 days, so our experience was somewhat limited but Seth and I found some true treasures.
TO EAT
Taverna Glafkos
Our first stop in Paros, I had been looking forward to a refreshing Aperol Spritz at Taverna Glafkos since booking our plane tickets. Picture pristine waves softly folding onto the beach, close enough to touch, as the friendly staff sets down plates of appetizers. Recently made famous from social media, I was relieved to be seated right away – that’s the beauty of traveling slightly before tourist season.
Meltemi
Highlighting the best harbor views in Naoussa, we visited Meltemi multiple times during our stay. Family owned and run, the food is fresh and coffee outstanding. Seth and I couldn’t get enough of their frothy iced Freddo Cappuccino, making stops by Meltemi imperative.
TO DO
Frankish Castle
Said to be one of the most enduring ancient sites in Paros, the Frankish Castle was built on the hill of Agios Konstantinos in the 1200s. A sight to behold, the structure stands strongly in the hillsides, with consistently intentional architecture. It’s a must-see when visiting the island.
Beaches
Paros is abundant with sandy beaches and crystal clear blue water. From relaxing atmospheres, long stretches of striking granite and easy access, these are some of the best spots to dip your toes in the central Aegean Sea.
Pasta Making Class
Easily one of our favorite experiences of the trip, we signed up for a pasta making class on our second to last night. Daniele Ristorante Italiano is located in the charming village of Parikia. Chef and Owner, Daniele Astolfi, originally from Italy now calls Greece his home. We cut raviolis, stretched fettuccine and indulged in the freshest bites of spaghetti. This class is a must when visiting Paros. Making pasta by hand, in the candlelit tavern with Seth will forever be one of my fondest moments.
Freshly washed laundry drying in the Mediterranean wind tickled our shoulders as we lugged suitcases down the whitewashed steps to our rental car. Passing a fisherman with octopus in-hand, vibrant flora and our favorite coffee shop, I missed Paros before we had even left. The island and people who reside there are nothing short of magic. Gazing up at the ancient city one last time before boarding the ship, I captured the moment, storing it in my memories. Until next time.
Ancient Athens
Although only in the city for two nights, we immensely enjoyed two days visiting the ancient city.
To Do
Walking Tour Of The Acropolis
You’ll find a variety of options to explore the ruins – Seth and I chose a simple walking tour. Our group met at a defined location, were provided earbuds and started the journey on foot. We learned Greek history, some mythology and stories passed down from generations. When I saw the famous olive tree of the goddess Athena, goosebumps formed all over my body. Throughout the day, I continuously fell silent in complete awe of the feet that walked these crumbled sites.
To Eat
Atrium Greek Bistrot
The sister hotel to our accommodation in Athens, Atrium is tucked cozily inside Herodion Hotel. Trees coming through the ceiling, ambient natural light and of course, delicious fare, the refreshing space is an oasis from bustling city streets.
Slowly rolling our suitcases through Athens, we took in the city views and Greek air lingering over coffee. Although sad to be leaving, there was deep gratitude for the opportunity to experience the country of my ancestors. We’ve promised to return – likely visiting Naxos and Crete. In the meantime, I’ll treasure these moments and smile thinking about exploring the Greek countryside side by side with the love of my life.
the view from our hotel’s rooftop
